Member postings for Andy Stone 1

Hi Thanks Charles Yes its an aircraft ESC totally unsuitable, It works fine on the submarine I made so it deffo worksI went ahead after finding a near suitable ESC from a website in Sydney, Ill just need to be careful about my battery choice Its a Brushless ESC Dave and thanks for you most welcome tips if I ever go down this path again, I will take notes and shove them in the Box along with the ESC before storing it. Luckily I don't need a reverse Richard but I understand what you've told me, there's risks which we either manage or ignore. Electrical items aren't just worth the risk.

Hi Ray, I found the same on there website, tried to email them but not had a reply, never mind, a bit about the motor its a 12v Duratech 18,800 RPM so far too big for the ESC even using a 6V battery, Id like to try it but not game to. So I better get hold of the right ESC if I can, our local shop closed down during covid and not all state shops have fully replenished there stocks.

Regards, Andy

Hi Ray, Sorry about the image size, strictly amateur as you can see. The number should read B4038 Companys usually reply to a customer but unfortunately not this on. Im hoping the pics can shed a light on it Ray

thanks, Andy

Ive come across an ESC from the bits and bobs box, I have used it before and it worked well. Of course the old grey matter isn't working too well and Im amiss trying to remember what voltage it was made for. Ive written a number of emails to the Tywan manufacturer asking for info but had no reply, here's the question I'm hoping someone with far greater knowledge than myself can help.

I have a 12 volt Brushed motor I want to use, Would it destroy the ESC if it turned out to be a 6Volt operated type if I was to use a 12v battery , and would it drive the motor

Andy

Thanks for your help, I can see now from your pic John after Ashley described it, Very neat and tucked out of the way nicely. I like the Idea of yours Richard it would do nicely, I have another solution though, A gland nut and packing, it would have to have a solid outer casing but that shouldn't be a problem, If the overseas postage wasn't so slow I would like the bellows though. Thanks for your help.

My water jet arrived in the post yesterday, Its got a 5mm shaft so I may have to make another coupling to suit a smaller motor. As previously mentioned It is a big jet

Andy

Hi Ashley,/ John, I get what you mean now by a snake, I bit like a morse/teleflex control as used in boats a fair bit, loads of grease should seal it from water ingress, Yes I realise Im going to have to use a lot of weight Ashley , probably have to use an SLA type 12 v battery to get some weight in there A bit of trial and error to find the right weight.

Ive not sure Ive heard of a submarine bellows Chris, whats its function and how does it work, ?

Andy

Chris, things aren't meant to be easy, its good to challenge yourself from time to time, Your right Im not making things easy for myself. The hull is a similar shape to the cigarette offshore racer, long and lean but not too long, Water ingress is a problem I'm going to have to tackle at some stage, Most and nearly allof the electronics will be enclosed in a water type enclosure, Its just the one servo Ill just have to rack the old grey matter for an answer, things aren't meant to be easy !

Whats a slinkier Ashley ?

Andy

Chris,

The Type of boat intend to build is semi-submersible, the reason I asked how really were the waterproof servos were I particularly don't want to damage or have to replace it. I would also have to alter my design which isn't set in concrete yet but would rather not

The hull will be scratch built, something like a cigarette design. The hull length is 70cm, the size of the 3 ply wood I had available. Its not a bad size car hull either. Hope to receive the jet in the post tomorrow,

Andy

Hi Ashley, Dave and Chris, thanks for your replies and tips, I think Ive a lot more to learn regarding Jets, water cooled ESC,s and the power that a large motor I have which is a brushed 775 motor will draw, Particularly as the workspace won't have any cooling apart from the water jackets of the ESC and motor. Im still in the design stage of my hull so its good to ask these questions before I get carried away.

Ive another question without an obvious answer, Hopefully you can answer it. Some types of servo`s are described as waterproof, Are they really as submerging an expensive one could be a really costly mistake. I get water resistant but not waterproof

Andy

HI I've just bought a 40mm water jet motor, not knowing very much about them or what size hull it would drive has anyone had any experience with them ? another hopeful question Id like to ask, What size and type of Battery would the drive unit need / The motor doesn't have a water cooled motor, would it be a good idea to fit one to keep the motor cool ? sorry about all the questions but as you can see by my questions I'm a dummy where they are concerned

Regards, Andy

Ive found an old electric toothbrush fitted with a Dremel type of cutting wheel works a treat in tight corners, just shave off the brush head so its flat then drill a hole big enough to take a small tapping screw, place the cutting tool and Screw down tight enough but not too tight, put your goggles on and bobs your uncle, you've something handy, rechargeable and simple enough to work with

At least most postage from China is free, not that I recommend them in any way, I prefer quality every time and don't mind paying for what i get. Not too long ago I ordered a hull for the Hilda 2 Pilot cutter. Postage was quoted at 40 pounds, Ok a bit expensive but i knew what i was getting into so went ahead and placed my order. I had a shock when I was told shortly after that the usual postal service the company used cannot post at the price quoted, and If I wanted to proceed with the purchase the charge would be 80 pounds. I cancelled like anyone would in the circumstance.

What aggrieved me most was that any order posted to a UK address over 100 pounds was free postage

Andy

Hmm what a horrible thought !

Hi Can anyone tell me how to fit and secure Reefing lines in a sail, my next job is to make the sails and to look authentic I would like to add some reefing lines, Ive no idea to be honest. The sails will be made of Calico

Thanks, Andy

Neville Shute is one of my favourite writers, His best two novels are "Requiem for a Wren " and "Trustee from the Toolroom " I have read both these novels many many times about 5 years apart and I still get the old thrill of reading them. Anyone else a fan of Neville Shute ?

Andy

It would be nice to get hold of the filler you mentioned Ashley, Ive found a tube of plaster flier which is pretty handy and sands easily too, It only takes an hour to harden off to sand lightly so its just the ticket for me, ( my shed is 34c-36c at the moment ) so I don't really want to hang around in it for too long.

Ray, it ws supposed to be a pilot cutter, Ive often admired the look of them So i decided this year with this build to buy a fibreglass hull from -? in UK, Easy build I thought, It was expensive but I thought id treat myself, they first quoted 40 pound freight, then sent me a message after i had paid that they couldn't get anyone to deliver at that price but can do for 80 pounds if that's ok, A bit disgusted i cancelled and thought to try an Australian supplier only to find they went out of business. So no plans Ray but loads of pics, So thought why not give it a bash.

Stay warm, best wishes from Queensland

Andy

Thanks Ashley, for some reason I thought that Tissue was preferred as it doesn't have any of those nasty fibres that stick into you or hang around the workspace. Maybe my age is begining to show up.

One other question I have to ask, If the hull your working on after the epoxy has dried, rubbed down and still got holes or dents in it, can you fill those holes or dents with resin or can any other filler be used ?

Andy

In my current build I am not sure weather to seal the inside or outside the hull, I have usually sealed inside with an epoxy coat and a tin fibreglass mesh. After reading the comments made which made good sense, I should probably use the epoxy resin on the outside of the hull,

Way back I think I remember reading on Model boats some builders used tissue paper and epoxy creating a smoother and quite strong surface, Would it be easy to rub down afterwards when the epoxy is dry if I use this method ? does the hull need to be blemish free and a smooth surface prior to the epoxy treatment ?

Andy

Ive found with a leaking prop shaft limited success using plumbers PTFE tape wrapped around the shaft, it creates a nice smooth surface and your able to thicken or thin down the shaft to prevent leakage, When I say limited success i mean it only works well on one direction shafts but not so well on forward and reverse drives.

Andy